Saturday, December 17, 2011

FAQ About Salt Chlorine Generators for Swimming Pools, Spas and Hot Tubs

Let's talk about chemistry. Not pool water chemistry (yet), human chemistry.

Have you ever wondered why your body floats in the ocean?

It's from the extremely high salt density in the water. The salinity in the ocean is around 35,000 ppm. Some oceans, like the Dead Sea are much higher but, on average, that number is correct.

Your body has a certain amount of salinity also. It can be found in your saliva, your sweat and your tears. Your tears salinity is about 8,000 ppm.
This reason alone is a strong arguement for converting your pool to salt. When in a "fresh water" pool, there is little or no salt at all which brings your body out of it's natural comfort zone.

The salt in a "salt pool" refreshes your eyes and quenches your skin and hair. The salinity of a salt pool is around 3,200-3,600 ppm. It's not quite the same as your body but it's close.

Here are some of the most commonly asked questions about Salt Generators/Chlorinators:

Q: Is a salt pool like swimming in the ocean?
A: Not quite; There's a considerable difference between the salinity of the ocean (20,000-35,000 ppm) and a salt chlorinated pool (3,200 ppm). At  3,200 ppm, you genereally can't even taste the salt and, anything under 6,000 ppm is still considered "fresh water".

Q: Is the water still blue?
A: Yes, since the salt water system creates chlorine, the water is still blue and also very clear. The salt system gives your pool the water quality you have dreamed about diving into.

Q: Can a salt system be installed with my existing equipment?
A: Yes, since water is still considered fresh, it is compatible with all standard pool equipment including pumps, filters, heaters, pool sweeps, etc. It is advised that you check with the manufacturer of the salt chlorinator tp verify that you can use it with a stainless steel filter or a considerable amount of copper plumbing.

Q: Does salt "soften" the pool water?
A: Yes, this is one of the many benefits of the salt system.

Q: Will I save money?
A: The fact that you no longer need to use packaged pool chlorine will save you a significant amount of money in the long run. The most common reason people choose to install a salt system is because of the fantastic water quality and the effects it has on  the bather's comfort level. Your body is in a more natural state with the salt.

Q: Will there be deposits left on the tile line?
A: Unless you are checking your pH levels on a daily basis, you will, unfortunately, experience some kind of buid-up. To help counter this, try some Scale-Tec. It will help break up calcium along the water line and tile. You should be scrubbing your tile line regularly already. If you keep up on this task, and maintain your pH, you will have no more work than normal.

Q: Will the pool be as sanitary as it would be with regular liquid chlorine?
A: Yes! Having a salt system means that you are manufacturing your own chlorine right in your own backyard. Not only are you creating chlorine in a cost effective way, you are constantly generating enough chlorine to keep your pool sanitary all the time. The salt generator is only converting salt to chlorine for as long as the pump is running. If you reduce the amount of time your pump runs each day, be sure to adjust the chlorine output accordingly.

I hope this article helps answer some of your questions about salt chlorine generators. If you have other questions, you can submit them as a comment and I will create a follow-up.

Friday, September 2, 2011

Tips for Proper Swimming Pool and Spa Water Testing

Follow these tips to help you achieve the best possible pool and spa water testing results. Quality in/quality out.

  • Take water sample from at least 12" below surface
  • Carefully measure sample of water to be tested
  • Follow all instructions on test  kit
  • Hold bottle vertically to ensure uniform drop size
  • Add drops slowly
  • Avoid handling tablets with fingers
  • Never interchange caps of reagent bottles
  • Never use finger as a cap
  • Thoroughly wash test tubes or cells between tests
  • Test frequently and maintain records
  • Do not add OTO reagents to pool!
  • Avoid exposing test reagents to sunlight, freezing or high temperatures for prolonged periods
  • Store test equipment properly. In a cool, dark area
  • Replace test chemicals at the start of each season

Tuesday, August 30, 2011



          

Swimming Pool Filter Sizing


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about choosing the right swimming pool filter to be sure that you’re getting the best performance and clearest pool water. Filters are one example when bigger is better!

           Flow Rate / Filter Ability = Filter Size

Filter Ability for the different types of filters are as follows:

D.E. = 2 GPM per square foot

Cartridge = 0.375 GPM per square foot

Sand = 15 GPM per square foot

Ex: 75 GPM

Filter size for D.E., Cartridge and Sand would be:

75 / 2 = D.E ……. 37.5 sq ft
                 
    
75 / 0.375 = Catr. …. 200 sq ft
75 / 15 = Sand …… 5 sq ft

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

Swimming Pool Spa and Hot Tub Heater Output Per Hour


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as stated in the title, is about choosing the right heater to bring your pool, spa or hot tub water to the desired temperature.

Formula: Heater Output:

            Pool Volume (gal.) x Temp Diff. X 8.33

Ex: 20,000 gal. pool that is 77 degrees and you want to                                 
       heat it to 83. It would be; 20,000 x 6 x 8.33 = 999,600. Thiss means that you would require a 1,000,000 BTU heater to get the pool up to temp in one hour.

Note: 1 BTU = 1 lb of water raised 1 degree F.

Note: 1 gal of water = 8.34 lbs.

To find heater input: Heater Output / Heater Efficiency

Ex: Heater output = 1,000,000 BTUs
Heater Efficiency = 80%

1,000,000 / .8 = 1,250,000BTUs (Heater Input)

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

Swimming Pool Filter Ability Rate (FMR)



There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about figuring out the rate at which water will pass through the filter media. Measured in gallons per minute per square foot (GPM/sqft)

Formula:

       Flow Rate / Filter size (in sq. ft.) = Filter Ability

Ex: Flow Rate = 111GPM                              
        Filter Size = 55.5 sq. ft.

111 / 55.5 = 2GPM Filter Ability

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Calculate Swimming Pool Flow Rate


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about how to calculate the flow rate of the pool water running through your system. This is an important calculation upon which many other pool formulas are based. In commercials pools and spas this is regulated by the State or Local Environmental Health Services and minimum flow rates are required.

Formula:

Pool Volume (gal) / Turnover Rate (minutes) = Flow Rate in GPM


In California (at this writing) the required turnover rates are:
Pools = 360 minutes (or 6 hours)
Spas = 30 minutes (1/2 hour)

Ex: a 40,000 gal pool would be: 40,000 / 360 = 111 GPM


Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Calculate Turnover Rate for Swimming Pools and Spas


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about calculating turnover rates. One “turnover” is the amount of time it would take for the volume of the pool or spa water to pass through the filtration system one time. Obviously, the water is constantly mixing and, therefore, not all of the water will be filtered in the time it takes for the total volume to pass through the system but that is not important. Turnover Rate is measured in hours.

Formula:

Pool Volume (gal) / Flow Rate (GPM) / 60 = Turnover Rate (Hours)

Ex: 40,000 gal pool with a flow rate of 111 GPM would be:

40,000 / 111 / 60 = 6 hour Turnover Rate

Spa or Hot Tub Water Changing Formula


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about calculating how often you should change out, or dump, your spa water. How do you know when it’s no longer worthwhile to try to improve your spa or hot tub water using chemicals? When is it better and more cost effective to simply dump the water and start over? Use this simple formula to find out if you’re fighting a losing battle.

Formula:

Spa Volume (gal) / 3 / # of users per 24 hours = Days

Example: 2,000 gal spa with 50 users over a 24 hour period.

2,000 / 3 = 666/ 50 = 13 Days

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Calculate the Amount of Water (Volume) in Your Swimming Pool or Spa Square or Rectangular


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about finding out how much water is in your pool or spa. You need this number for anything you want to do to or with your pool or spa. From chemical additions to turnover rates, filter rates, water changes, heating, etc.

Formula:

Length x Width x Ave. Depth x 7.48 = Volume in Gallons
                            Or L x W x AD x 7.48 = V

Note: 1 cubic Foot = 7.48 Gallons

Note: Average Depth is found by adding the depth at the deepest and shallowest areas of the pool then dividing by 2.

Ex: a rectangular pool measuring 18’ x 36’ with a 3’ shallow end and a 9’ deep end would be

18 x 36 x 6 x 7.48 = 29,082 gal. It is perfectly acceptable to round this number to 29,000. Anything less than 500 gallons is not going to have a huge impact on a body of water this size.

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

How to Know When to Add Chlorine to Your Pool or Spa,…and How Much


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about when to add chlorine and how much you should be using. The formula we will be using is the same one that is used to calculate any chemical change in your pool or spa but we are looking at chlorine separately because it serves a different purpose in your pool than the chemicals, such as acid, do. It is used for sanitation and oxidation of organic matter.  

Formula:

Amount of Chlorine (oz, lb, fl. oz, gal) x Pool Volume (gal) / 10 x Adjustment (PPM) / 1 = Total Amount needed

To get the first value, you must decide which type of chlorine you will be using and at which concentration levels.

 Each has it’s own number to raise Free Chlorine (FC) by 1PPM, as follows:
Calcium Hypochlorite (Cal Hypo) 65% AC = 2.0 oz
Cal Hypo 70% AC = 1.9 oz
Cal Hypo 75% AC = 1.8 oz

Sodium Hypochlorite (Liquid Chlorine)
12% AC = 10.7 fl oz
10% AC = 12.8 fl oz

Sodium Dichloro-s-triazinetrione (Dichlor)
56% AC = 2.38 oz
62% AC = 2.15 oz

Trichloro-s-triazinetrione (Trichlor)
90% AC = 1.5 oz

Lithium Hypochlorite (Lithium Hypo)
28% AC = 4.7 oz
35% AC = 3.8 oz

Chlorine Gas
100% AC = 1.3oz

For our example, we’ll just use liquid chlorine, or bleach at an AC level of 12%. Let’s say we’re standing over our 40,000 gal pool which has a chlorine reading of 1.0 PPM and we would like that number to be a 3 PPM.


Ex: 10.7 fl oz x 4 x 2 = 85.6 fl oz of liquid chlorine would be needed.

There are times when you will need to Super-chlorinate or Shock your pool or spa water. To calculate how much chlorine you will need to reach, what is called, “Breakpoint Chlorination”, you will need to measure, both, Free and Total Available Chlorine (FAC and TAC). If these numbers are not within 0.3 of each other, you need to shock.

Formula:

Step 1. TAC – FAC = Combined Active Chlorine (CAC)

Step 2. CAC x 10 = Adjustment

Step 3. Use the Chemical Adjustment Formula

Ex: Same pool as above but the FAC = 2.0 and TAC = 4.0

4.0 – 2.0 = 2.0

2.0 x 10 = 20.0

10.7 x 4 x 20 = 856 fl oz or 6.69 gallons of chlorine. Obviously, we can just use 7 gallons.

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

Things to Know About Your Swimming Pool/Spa Filter


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article will help you better understand your filter’s ability to remove matter from your pool’s water.
 The Filter type, Filter Rate, Effectiveness and Media Life of each of the 3 types of pool filters is shown below.

Filter Media- Sand & Gravel:

Filter Rate= 1.5-5 GPM/SqFt

Effectiveness: 50-100 Microns

Media Life: Top Layer = Yearly. Entire Media = 5-10 years.

Filter Media- High Rate Sand

Filter Rate= 12-20 GPM/SqFt

Effectiveness= 25 Microns (clean filter)

Media Life= Top few inches= Yearly. Entire Media = 5-10 years.

Filter Media- D.E.

Filter Rate= 1-2 GPM/SqFt

Effectiveness= 1-2 Microns

Media Life= 2 months

Filter Media- Cartridge

Filter Rate= .0375- 1.0 GPM/SqFt

Effectiveness= 15 microns

Media Life= 6-36 months

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

Swimming Pool/ Spa Water Problems, Causes, Solutions and Preventions


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about the many commons problems found when maintaining a pool or spa, what may be the cause, common solutions and what you can do to prevent it happening to you again.

Problem: Cloudy Water
Possible Cause: Early algae growth, High pH, High Total                        
                              Alkalinity
Suggested Solution: See “Algae” section below, Lower                 
                                       pH to 7.2-7.8, Lower Total                     
                                       Alkalinity to 80-125
Preventative Maintenance: See “Algae” section below,                      
                                                     Maintain pH in ideal range,                     
                                                     Maintain Tot. Alk. in ideal                                
                                                     Range

Problem: Discolored Water
Possible Cause: Green/Hazy= algae, Green/Clear=                                 
                               Copper or Iron,                               
                               Black/Purple/Red/Brown= Manganese
Suggested Solution: See “Algae” section below, Adjust                                    
                                       pH, Shock treat, Run filter,            
                                       continuously, until water is clear,                    
                                      Use a metal remover followed by a                     
                                      filter clean.
Preventative Maintenance: See “Algae” section below,           
                                                     Maintain proper pH, Use a             
                                                     sequestering agent

Problem: Algae
Possible Cause: Insufficient Chlorine
Suggested Solution: Adjust pH, Brush walls with steel          
                                       or nylon brush, shock, run filter          
                                       until water clears, clean filter. If         
                                       Yellow or Mustard algae- use an                             
                                      algaecide.
Preventative Maintenance: Maintain a minimum free           
                                                     chlorine reading of 1-3ppm            
                                                     in all cases

Problem: Eye & Skin Irritation
Possible Cause: Improper pH, Chloramines
Suggested Solution: Adjust pH to 7.2-7.8, See “Chlorine                     
                                       Odor” below
Preventative Maintenance: Maintain pH in 7.2-7.8                              
Range

Problem: Chlorine Odor
Possible Cause: Insufficient chlorine (The cause is,             
                                 not too much, but rather, not               
                                 enough chlorine.)
Suggested Solution: Adjust pH to 7.2-7.8, shock pool              
                                          to 10ppm of Free Chlorine (use                   
                                          DPD test kit)
Preventative Maintenance: Shock treat pool weekly                         
                                                         or bi-weekly in the         
                                                         summer.

Problem: Scale Formation
Possible Cause: High pH, High Total Alkalinity, High         
                                 Calcium Hardness
Suggested Solution: Lower pH to 7.2-7.8, Lower Tot.                  
                                         Alk. to 80-120, Use sequestering                
                                         agent, Partially drain pool
Preventative Maintenance: Maintain pH at 7.2-7.8         
                                                         range, Maintain T.A. at               
                                                         80-120 range                
                                                        (depending on type of        
                                                         pool)

Problem: Corrosion of Metal Parts
Possible Cause: Low pH, Low Tot. Alk., Low Calcium                 
                                 Hardness
Suggested Solution: Adjust pH to 7.2-7.8, Raise Tot.                     
                                         Alk. to ideal range, Raise              
                                         Calcium Hardness to ideal range
Preventative Maintenance: Maintain pH at 7.2-7.8,               
                                                         Maintain Tot. Alk. at 80            
                                                         -120, Maintain Calcium          
                                                         Hardness at 400-600                
                                                         Ppm

Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com

Characteristics of Chlorine in Your Pool and Spa Water


There is a formula for anything that you need to accomplish with regards to swimming pools, spas and hot tubs. Whether it’s a chemical adjustment or a piece of equipment that you need to replace and you want to be sure it’s the right size.

This article, as is stated in the title, is about the strength, types, physical properties of and pH effect of the different types of chlorine used in pools and spas. Also included are the same qualities of Bromine.

% of available chlorine:
      Sodium Hypochlorite = 10-12%
     Calcium Hypochlorite = 65-78%
     Lithium Hypochlorite = 35%
     Gas Chlorine = 100%
     Trichlor = 90%
     Dichlor = 56-63%
     BCDMH Bromine = 27%

% of active strength:
     Sod. Hypo. = 10-12%
     Cal. Hypo. = 65-78%
     Lith. Hypo. = 29%
     Gas Chl. = 100%
     Trichlor = >99%
     Dichlor = >99%
     Bromine = 95.5%

pH in 1% solution:
     Sod. Hypo. = 13
     Cal Hypo = 8.5-11
     Lith Hypo = 10.8
     Gas = 0
     Trichlor = 2.8-3.5
     Dichlor = 6.5-6.8
     Bromine = 4.8

pH effect in water:
     Sod Hypo = Raises
     Cal Hypo = Raises
     Lit Hypo = Raises
     Gas = Lowers
     Trichlor = Lowers
     Dichlor = Neutral
     Bromine = Lowers

Physical Appearance:
     Sod Hypo = Liquid
     Cal Hypo = Granular, Tabs, Brisquet
     Lit Hypo = Granular
     Gas = Gas
     Trichlor = Granular, Tabs
     Dichlor = Granular
     Bromine = Tabs, Granular


Article by: Jef Kirchmaier, CPO, CPT, AEA, WQM
                 
                          http://www.cpo2go.com